I was in Idaho for only three days, but it gave me everything! I was not expecting that at all, and I had only ever considered the state as a quick pass through.
Straight off at the border, it may just be possible that I cycled through the most beautiful country on the route. Pretty much over 70 miles of gradual downhill along a picturesque river in a steep forested valley. It was awesome - even the stretches of loose gravel, where roadworks were going on, were fun.
During this time, I was cycling with Florian, a 25 year old German also on the TransAm that I met in Missoula. After leaving Laura and James, it was great to have more company.
Yesterday I left Florian and I am now off the TransAm trail all on my tod, following the Columbia River to Portland.
So, Idaho now decided to get very hot and dry, with a lot of agriculture - de ja vu with Missouri and Kansas! No wonder it is called the Potato State! It is unbelievable how similar it is to those earlier states, just with bigger hills. Except for the odd small pass, I am mainly following the huge Snake and Columbia Rivers, so it is quite flat.
The roads in Idaho seem to all be under repair at the same time, and they need it! Some of them are awful. Having said that, Winchester Rd will forever stick in my mind as the most fun 9 miles of downhill I have ever head, with no traffic and plenty of switchbacks! Worth the trip just to do that road!
Lewis and Clark were two American pioneers who were sent out from Philidelphia to discover whether there was a navigable river from the West that connected to the Missouri. I have been cycling in their footsteps and now find myself in the small town of Clarkston just in Washington State - my penultimate state in the USA. It is worth noting that just across the river in Idaho is Lewiston, which is 4x as big - we know who the most influential of the two men was!
I have 6 days until I am in Portland, then a further 6 days until Andrea arrives! In my mind, Portland is the end of this part of the adventure with the ride to Vancouver being another journey. I have that slight finish line excitment in me! I have now crossed into a state that has a coastline - not since Virginia has that been the case. There is something about the coast that is drawing me, and I have decided that I will have to live by the sea eventually - Bognor here I come!
Tuesday 31 July 2012
Friday 27 July 2012
Farewell
Missoula without doubt has been the best town we have been to and therefore a great place to spend 2 rest days. It has a really nice vibe and beautiful scenery.
To be honest, I have spent most of the time watching TV and lying in bed, but hey, its been over 3000 miles to get here! Managed to watch the Olympic opening ceremony, and I thought the bit before the athletes came in was excellent. Felt a bit homesick for a bit. Hopefully we will nail it!
Tomorrow I will split with Laura and James. It has been great cycling with them and I will miss their company. One thing I have learnt on this trip, having already cycled on my own, is that experiences shared are a joy and makes life on the road much easier when the going gets tough. I hope they have a great onward journey and look forward to seeing them again.
Tonight we had a great pizza and then watched a bit of a baseball game (still don't get it). It is now very humid and a huge storm is brewing, so going to head to bed.
To be honest, I have spent most of the time watching TV and lying in bed, but hey, its been over 3000 miles to get here! Managed to watch the Olympic opening ceremony, and I thought the bit before the athletes came in was excellent. Felt a bit homesick for a bit. Hopefully we will nail it!
Tomorrow I will split with Laura and James. It has been great cycling with them and I will miss their company. One thing I have learnt on this trip, having already cycled on my own, is that experiences shared are a joy and makes life on the road much easier when the going gets tough. I hope they have a great onward journey and look forward to seeing them again.
Tonight we had a great pizza and then watched a bit of a baseball game (still don't get it). It is now very humid and a huge storm is brewing, so going to head to bed.
Wednesday 25 July 2012
Tuesday 24 July 2012
West winds
Montana is gorgeous, but my goodness is it windy! Yesterday was the hardest day of riding I have ever done on a bike. We had to climb two passes with a 25-30mph headwind, which is strong. There were a number of times when I almost cracked, but it is testament to the journey that I just put my head down and kept peddling. If yesterday had been earlier in the trip, perhaps in the Appalachians, then I think I would have stopped, but I feel in the zone at the moment, and I just get into an easy gear and peddle. I have really struggled with headwinds and find I get very angry when they occur, but I have now made peace with them, and respect their power. You cannot beat a wind, and you certainly cannot let it bother you. Just slow down and relax, that is the key.
Montana has been everything I expected. Wilderness, forests and mountains. It also seems to be the fly fishing capital of the world, and every town advertises its fishing! It is a different ball game here to the UK which I love. There is no pretentiousness about it which is just ridiculous back home. Anyone can fish here (no big bucks involved) and all you need is a licence. There are no fancy prices for certain beats. It is such a breath of fresh air. In rural America, or at least up here, there seems to be no strong class system, which I think stifles the UK. You can fly fish in a Hawaii t-shirt and no one would give a damn (except the fish!). Having said that, I have seen a couple of Orvis shop though!
Tomorrow we will be in Missoula. The company that produce the Trans America trails maps are based in Missoula, so we will pop into the offices to say hello - and hopefully get some free ice-cream (rumours travel well on the trail between cyclists!). When I started this journey, Missoula was a city I was very much looking forward to, and it seemed so far away. It is unbelievable that I am 65 miles away! Laura, James and I will probably spend at least two days resting before I split with them and head West, while they go North up to Glacier National Park. Having extra days off is great because it usually takes one day to do errands. We are also all feeling the jounrey a little. My little fingers on both hands are going numb while riding, I have muscle pains in my back and the tip of my big toe has gone tingly! My mother would put it all down to repetitive strain injury and I think I concur! Apparently Missoulans are big on tubing down the river in lorry inner tubes with a crate of beer. I may also try and do some fishing.
Last night I met a cyclists who used to live in Portland, and he has sold the place to me. I cannot wait to get there and explore. Not only does it sound like a easy going place with a lot on, but it is the most cycle friendly city in the USA. It will be interesting to compare it to Amsterdam. Micro-breweries, tonnes of restaurants, bike trails, music scene, mountains on the horizon - sounds good to me! It will also mean I am reunited with Andrea again, which will be great. I cannot wait to cycle with her to Vancouver, and I have certainly missed her a lot!
Montana has been everything I expected. Wilderness, forests and mountains. It also seems to be the fly fishing capital of the world, and every town advertises its fishing! It is a different ball game here to the UK which I love. There is no pretentiousness about it which is just ridiculous back home. Anyone can fish here (no big bucks involved) and all you need is a licence. There are no fancy prices for certain beats. It is such a breath of fresh air. In rural America, or at least up here, there seems to be no strong class system, which I think stifles the UK. You can fly fish in a Hawaii t-shirt and no one would give a damn (except the fish!). Having said that, I have seen a couple of Orvis shop though!
Tomorrow we will be in Missoula. The company that produce the Trans America trails maps are based in Missoula, so we will pop into the offices to say hello - and hopefully get some free ice-cream (rumours travel well on the trail between cyclists!). When I started this journey, Missoula was a city I was very much looking forward to, and it seemed so far away. It is unbelievable that I am 65 miles away! Laura, James and I will probably spend at least two days resting before I split with them and head West, while they go North up to Glacier National Park. Having extra days off is great because it usually takes one day to do errands. We are also all feeling the jounrey a little. My little fingers on both hands are going numb while riding, I have muscle pains in my back and the tip of my big toe has gone tingly! My mother would put it all down to repetitive strain injury and I think I concur! Apparently Missoulans are big on tubing down the river in lorry inner tubes with a crate of beer. I may also try and do some fishing.
Last night I met a cyclists who used to live in Portland, and he has sold the place to me. I cannot wait to get there and explore. Not only does it sound like a easy going place with a lot on, but it is the most cycle friendly city in the USA. It will be interesting to compare it to Amsterdam. Micro-breweries, tonnes of restaurants, bike trails, music scene, mountains on the horizon - sounds good to me! It will also mean I am reunited with Andrea again, which will be great. I cannot wait to cycle with her to Vancouver, and I have certainly missed her a lot!
Saturday 21 July 2012
Bear Necessities
I have just left Yellowstone and we now enter Montana.
My thoughts about Yellowstone are mixed. It is a beautiful place, and pristine, but I think I expected a lot more and I cannot exaggerate how many tourists were on the road! I am not sure it is somewhere I would rush back to and I think there are many more beautiful places in the USA. The volcanic activity (geysers and warm springs) is interesting, but each area was packed and I have seen it before around Naples.
The best parts of Yellowstone were the crystal clear rivers that we washed in and the chance to see bison and black bears (both very close). Early yesterday morning (before the hoards of traffic started) we came across a mother bear with her cub. They were beautiful and not threatening in the slightest. I find it all a bit much when everyone goes on about safety and bears, and tourists carry spray, even though they only go about 5 metres away from their vehicles to take a photo. I would say a large percentage of the tourists in Yellowstone don't really get out of their cars! I hate to sound negative, but an honest opinion of the place!
So, the wild state of Montana awaits. Without any knowledge, I am guessing that a group of East Anglians discovered this place, as its nickname is 'Big Sky Country'! Even though I am a tourist, it will be nice to leave the honey pot sights behind - particularly when travelling on bicycle.
Right now we are in the town of West Yellowstone and I am getting some repairs done on my bike. Last night was a rarity, as including ourselves, there were 8 cyclists in the campsite! There was a lot of chat about bicycle, routes, food on the road, etc. On that note, I ran out of food in Yellowstone and last night had to scrounge off Laura! Breakfast has to be my favourite meal, as I am getting sick of pasta and noodles for supper. Instant oatmeal and a bagel and jam hits the spot! Today we were also given a cup of coffee by the campsite host - what a luxury. I am now fully stocked for the road ahead.
All in all, things are going great. We will be cycling as a group for another 5 or 6 days until Missoula. Then I will head West to Portland to meet Andrea and the others are going further North. I am really looking forward to Portland as I have heard a lot of great things about it. It will also be nice to hit the Pacific soon after.
My thoughts about Yellowstone are mixed. It is a beautiful place, and pristine, but I think I expected a lot more and I cannot exaggerate how many tourists were on the road! I am not sure it is somewhere I would rush back to and I think there are many more beautiful places in the USA. The volcanic activity (geysers and warm springs) is interesting, but each area was packed and I have seen it before around Naples.
The best parts of Yellowstone were the crystal clear rivers that we washed in and the chance to see bison and black bears (both very close). Early yesterday morning (before the hoards of traffic started) we came across a mother bear with her cub. They were beautiful and not threatening in the slightest. I find it all a bit much when everyone goes on about safety and bears, and tourists carry spray, even though they only go about 5 metres away from their vehicles to take a photo. I would say a large percentage of the tourists in Yellowstone don't really get out of their cars! I hate to sound negative, but an honest opinion of the place!
So, the wild state of Montana awaits. Without any knowledge, I am guessing that a group of East Anglians discovered this place, as its nickname is 'Big Sky Country'! Even though I am a tourist, it will be nice to leave the honey pot sights behind - particularly when travelling on bicycle.
Right now we are in the town of West Yellowstone and I am getting some repairs done on my bike. Last night was a rarity, as including ourselves, there were 8 cyclists in the campsite! There was a lot of chat about bicycle, routes, food on the road, etc. On that note, I ran out of food in Yellowstone and last night had to scrounge off Laura! Breakfast has to be my favourite meal, as I am getting sick of pasta and noodles for supper. Instant oatmeal and a bagel and jam hits the spot! Today we were also given a cup of coffee by the campsite host - what a luxury. I am now fully stocked for the road ahead.
All in all, things are going great. We will be cycling as a group for another 5 or 6 days until Missoula. Then I will head West to Portland to meet Andrea and the others are going further North. I am really looking forward to Portland as I have heard a lot of great things about it. It will also be nice to hit the Pacific soon after.
Tuesday 17 July 2012
Jagged Mountains
I am now in the Grand Tetons. They are a stunning range of jagged mountains which are a national park. Yesterday we rode over Togwatee Pass (over 9000 ft) and then after some epic downhill free wheeling, were confronted with the beautiful snow capped mountains! Below the range are lakes, rivers and an abundance of wildlife - we have seen bison already.
The three of us are having a day off in Jackson - next to the famous ski resort of Jackson Hole - before cycling north into Yellowstone (it's not a bad life!). Jackson is horribly touristy, and quite smart (therefore expensive), but it is a cool place and very international, so after some of the backwater towns we have been in previously, it is great for kicking back. Also a good place to freshen up and replenish our supplies.
As I have mentioned, Wyoming is impressive, but it was difficult to ride through with almost a constant headwind. I have often struggled with headwinds, and find myself getting very angry, but one must remember that it is part and parcel of cycle touring, and I must just remember where I am. Anything that is worthwhile is difficult!
What is scary is how quickly this trip is going. Days are merging into one another, and sometimes I struggle to remember where we stayed the night before. It is just turning into one epic memory, with all the highlights jumping out. It is great to wake up and all I have to worry about is cycling, how I will get food and water and where I will sleep. There is something very pure about that and it is very healthy for the soul. There are many times when I miss things about my life back home, and wish the trip was soon over, but I know that as soon as I am home, I will miss the trip, so I must keep that in mind. I have the bug though, and I am already thinking of the next cycle trips I would like to take (I hope that future employers are not reading this!). If anyone is reading this and thinking of taking a trip, do, as you will not regret it. Also, do it on bicycle! You really feel the environment you are going through, as you are so vulnerable to everything.
Anyway, Yellowstone tomorrow, then we will be in Montana in three days. I cannot wait for Montana. If you have ever seen movies like A River Runs Through It or Legends of the Fall, then that is how I picture that state - hopefully it will not disappoint!
The three of us are having a day off in Jackson - next to the famous ski resort of Jackson Hole - before cycling north into Yellowstone (it's not a bad life!). Jackson is horribly touristy, and quite smart (therefore expensive), but it is a cool place and very international, so after some of the backwater towns we have been in previously, it is great for kicking back. Also a good place to freshen up and replenish our supplies.
As I have mentioned, Wyoming is impressive, but it was difficult to ride through with almost a constant headwind. I have often struggled with headwinds, and find myself getting very angry, but one must remember that it is part and parcel of cycle touring, and I must just remember where I am. Anything that is worthwhile is difficult!
What is scary is how quickly this trip is going. Days are merging into one another, and sometimes I struggle to remember where we stayed the night before. It is just turning into one epic memory, with all the highlights jumping out. It is great to wake up and all I have to worry about is cycling, how I will get food and water and where I will sleep. There is something very pure about that and it is very healthy for the soul. There are many times when I miss things about my life back home, and wish the trip was soon over, but I know that as soon as I am home, I will miss the trip, so I must keep that in mind. I have the bug though, and I am already thinking of the next cycle trips I would like to take (I hope that future employers are not reading this!). If anyone is reading this and thinking of taking a trip, do, as you will not regret it. Also, do it on bicycle! You really feel the environment you are going through, as you are so vulnerable to everything.
Anyway, Yellowstone tomorrow, then we will be in Montana in three days. I cannot wait for Montana. If you have ever seen movies like A River Runs Through It or Legends of the Fall, then that is how I picture that state - hopefully it will not disappoint!
Sunday 15 July 2012
Bear Aware
Wyoming can be a tough state to cycle through, purely because of the wind! Today was horrible as we cycled against a 10 mph headwind for 40 miles. Ouch!
The scenery is unreal though, and we are back into forested mountains rather than the arid stuff between northern Colorado and here.
Tomorrow we go over a pass and will then drop down into the Tetons, heading for Jackson Hole. We are going to have a day off, but thinking of staying on the bikes and going mountain biking!
Laura has a friend who lives just off the route, so we are staying with her family tonight in a beautiful log cabin (more like a mansion!). We spent the afternoon bombing around the mountains and forests on quads - awesome fun. We had to carry bear spray though, as there are grizzlies in the area!
That is the big subject at the moment. Bear spray or not. Yellowstone has bears, but a lot of tourists too to scare them. Bear spray is also very expensive (not a good excuse though!).
Yesterday we camped at a service station. A British cyclists heading east, called Rolf, also camped there, so it was nice to hear some stories of what is to come. He was a very funny guy. Apparently the actor who plays the drums in Spinal Tap lives in Missoula, so hopefully we will bump into him.
The night before we camped at a Mormon retreat site. They were very kind to us and we got a good history lesson. I am not a convert though, as hard as they tried. It was a beautiful spot though.
Briefly I want to thank Kevin and Lucy who put us up in Rawlins a couple of night ago. They are both cyclists and were very hospitable. Good luck Lucy with your race.
So, tonight I have showered and have clean clothes! In a month, Andrea will be flying out to Portland, so I cannot wait for that. It is crazy that we will be in Yellowstone and the Tetons tomorrow. It felt so long away at the start and now I am here!
The scenery is unreal though, and we are back into forested mountains rather than the arid stuff between northern Colorado and here.
Tomorrow we go over a pass and will then drop down into the Tetons, heading for Jackson Hole. We are going to have a day off, but thinking of staying on the bikes and going mountain biking!
Laura has a friend who lives just off the route, so we are staying with her family tonight in a beautiful log cabin (more like a mansion!). We spent the afternoon bombing around the mountains and forests on quads - awesome fun. We had to carry bear spray though, as there are grizzlies in the area!
That is the big subject at the moment. Bear spray or not. Yellowstone has bears, but a lot of tourists too to scare them. Bear spray is also very expensive (not a good excuse though!).
Yesterday we camped at a service station. A British cyclists heading east, called Rolf, also camped there, so it was nice to hear some stories of what is to come. He was a very funny guy. Apparently the actor who plays the drums in Spinal Tap lives in Missoula, so hopefully we will bump into him.
The night before we camped at a Mormon retreat site. They were very kind to us and we got a good history lesson. I am not a convert though, as hard as they tried. It was a beautiful spot though.
Briefly I want to thank Kevin and Lucy who put us up in Rawlins a couple of night ago. They are both cyclists and were very hospitable. Good luck Lucy with your race.
So, tonight I have showered and have clean clothes! In a month, Andrea will be flying out to Portland, so I cannot wait for that. It is crazy that we will be in Yellowstone and the Tetons tomorrow. It felt so long away at the start and now I am here!
Saturday 14 July 2012
Thursday 12 July 2012
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